Rethinking hemp
One of weavearth’s missions is to unlock the potential of hemp. Spinning technologies for hemp advanced greatly in the 2010s, but weaving and finishing techniques remained underdeveloped. As a result, the old image of hemp as “hard and coarse” persisted—leading to its frequent use in blends with cotton. (In fact, hemp softens beautifully with use.) Without change, hemp risked being seen only as a substitute for linen or ramie.
We drew on our knowledge of bast fibers and new approaches to begin developing fabrics that bring out hemp’s inherent potential. We referenced historical fabric constructions and repeated many tests. But most of the prototypes ended up resembling ramie, far from the supple, rich qualities of linen—fabrics without a unique character.
The essence of hemp
Hemp has one of the longest histories as a fiber. In Japan, the traditional seima process polished and refined hemp fibers into lustrous, supple, soft textiles that grew even softer with use. We realized the gap between modern spinning technologies and ancient techniques lay in the fiber preparation process itself—and that seima offered the inspiration we needed.
(Photo: Polished hemp fibers, about 100 years old, discovered in a farmer’s storehouse.)
A modern breakthrough
Inspired by seima, we pursued further research and development. Academic studies revealed that since the 1990s, China has been advancing research into hemp as a new material, and we learned much from these findings. The result was our first true breakthrough: a new-generation hemp fabric with luster, softness, smooth hand, bounce, and resilience—qualities almost reminiscent of silk. Experiencing this breakthrough convinced us that weavearth could move forward with confidence.
We will share the details of this research and development story separately.
How to convey this new hemp fabric
How best to showcase a fabric that feels almost like silk? Dresses and garments would certainly be beautiful, but at this stage, development costs would make them less accessible. In the end, we decided on products that stay close to the skin—pillowcases and cushion covers. They allow people to experience the qualities of this new hemp fabric directly in daily life, at a controlled price point.
Encouraging wider use of hemp contributes to the expansion of hemp agriculture itself, and increasing farmland is known to have benefits in addressing climate challenges. We hope these products play a role in that wider demand and expansion.
(Daitoh)
